Let your imagination go.

Personally, I love the look of mountains, rocks, trees and water. Nevertheless, I often start with a building (or buildings) I really like and then I build that particular part of the scene around it. Either way, this is a time to use your creative brain cells.

Once you have an idea of the look you want – mountains, hills, rocks, trees, streams, ponds,  waterfalls, towns, rail yards, etc – then it’s time to start placing the foam.

Layer the foam sheets much like a topographic map. You don’t necessarily want sharp angles unless you’re going after a particular rock scene. But you don’t have to sculpt it either because the plaster-soaked paper towels and the Sculptamold will do that.

Work and rework the look until you’re satisfied. Picture the scene with trees, foliage, rocks, etc. Trees in particular will make the finished scene look taller so keep that in mind. Then start gluing the foam layers together. Just a line of glue between layers will do. You don’t have to smear it everywhere. In fact, I recommend you don’t in case you want to change something later.

That’s one of the benefits of this method. Even when you’re all finished layering the foam, if you don’t like it, change it. I often change things several times before I’m satisfied.

This is where it gets messy. Mix the Plaster of Paris with water in a large pie pan. You’ll have to do this many times to cover a sizable scene.

I like the mix on the wet side. Dip paper towels in the plaster and place on the foam. Don’t try to get too artistic. The world is a messy place and the lay of the land on your scene can’t be too organized. Make a mess, but a mess somewhat under control.

Work fairly fast. Don’t think too much or you’ll drive yourself crazy trying to sculpt the great outdoors. Any mistakes can be corrected with Sculptamold after the plaster dries.

I like the consistency of the Sculptamold moist but not as runny as the plaster. When using the Sculptamold, don’t try to be too neat. Drop it on the spots that look appropriate and don’t touch it anymore than necessary. The less you fiddle with it the more it will look like real rocks.

Give the scene some time to dry. Then get a can of inexpensive flat black spray paint and spray the whole scene. Especially get under every crevice. Paint it and you’ll undoubtedly find you’ll have to paint it some more. I’m always amazed how many times I need to spray at this point. As soon as it dries you’ll undoubtedly see some spots that need more paint.

At this point you will undoubtedly also see some spots where you missed with the plaster and the Sculptamold. They are, after all, white products placed on white foam. Use the Sculptamold to touch-up and spots, let it dry, and spray it flat black again.

You can’t overdo it at this point. Spray everything flat black. It will ultimately give the whole scene depth, more of a three dimensional look.

After the flat black spray paint dries I often use primer from a spray can – or use dull gray colors with a brush. Personally, I like to spray with primer first. Important: Spray the dull gray color mostly from above. You don’t want to spray under the rocks. That’s why you have the black – for shadows. Spray the primer (dull gray) sparingly. You’re trying to give the look of depth and you’ll lose that if you eliminate all the black.

With the same relatively small paintbrush, apply some dark gray, light gray and earth colors on the scene. The colors are up to you but whatever combination you use, make it sloppy. Again, remember the world is a messy place and the lay of the land on your scene can’t be too organized. Make a mess, but a mess somewhat under control.

Don’t try to paint everything. Just here and there.

Paint a relatively small section and while the paint is still wet, sprinkle on a mixture products such as a combination of Woodland Scenics Fine Turf products. I often use a mixture of Weeds, Burnt Grass and Earth. Don’t use just one thing. Use at least two and preferably three. Apply sparingly at first. You can always add more if you think it needs it. Once again, work fairly fast. For one thing, the paint is drying. But you also don’t want to make it look too neat. Remember, the great outdoors is a messy place with a mixture of colors.

At this point I often add some lichen. Glue it on and if it’s in a difficult place use a nail to hold it in place until the glue dries. Remember, it’s the mixture of so many layers and different things that give the scene that three dimensional, life-like look. So, again, I use not one but two colors of lichen – usually light and medium green for a summer scene. If you’re going for an autumn look, use a couple different colors.

You’ll need some spray adhesive for this step. All hobby stores, craft stores and home improvement stores have it.

Again, you’ll want two and hopefully three different products at this point. I often use a combination of Woodland Scenics Coarse Turf products. I often use a mixture of Light Green, Medium Green and (sparingly) Yellow Grass. But I’ve used all kinds of combinations. Don’t use just one. Use at least two and preferably three.

Spray the scene in sections and apply the Coarse Turf. Don’t overdo it. Apply it sparingly. You can always add more if you think it’s needed.

It’s time to put the trees on the scene. It’s important to work from the inside–out and from back–to–front.

In other words, if you’re planting a forest of trees make sure you fill in the middle and work to the outside of the grove. And don’t plant the trees in the front of the lay-out closest to you first because then you’ll constantly have to work over and around them to get to the ones in the back.

I use an old fashioned ice pick to dig small holes for the trees but any pointed instrument will do. Put glue in the hole and plant the tree. I’ve used all kinds of glues at this point, by the way, and I’ve found Scenic Glue Multi-Purpose Adhesive by Woodland Scenics to be the best. It sets up faster and holds better than most – important when you realize trees on model railroad lay-outs tend to fall just like trees in real life. If you don’t want to constantly reglue falling trees, use a good adhesive from the start.

Years ago I used to make all my own trees individually. It was extremely time consuming. But to me, the ready-made trees are now much better and I prefer using them.

After you plant a tree, to make sure it’s straight, use the three vantage point approach. Important: The trunk of the tree has to be straight up and down to look right. Look at it from the front, then from the left and then from the right. You may be amazed how straight a tree looks from one vantage point but it looks very crooked from another. Straighten it so the trunk looks straight up and down from all three vantage points.

Plant trees sparingly at first. You don’t want to cover all the terrain. Remember, it’s the mixture of rocks, shadows, grassy areas, bushes and trees that makes it more realistic.

Add ballast (black and gray) for a realist look along the track. Add trackside junk, telephone poles, etc. for that really interesting look.

These pictures are actually the same scene incorporated into the larger lay-out.